Analysis
Analysis
To really see an object, it helps to take it apart in your mind. In this section we look at what a familiar accessory is made of, what job each part does and how the materials behave over the years. These breakdowns describe general principles, do not refer to specific products and do not suggest what to choose.
A bag keeps its shape not because of the leather but because of what is hidden between the leather and the lining.
Taking it apart: how a leather bag is made
Dressed leather
It all starts with leather that has been tanned and dyed. The tanning method determines whether it will be soft and supple or dense and stiff.
Vegetable-tanned leather darkens and becomes smoother over time. This is not a defect but natural ageing.
Cutting
The craftsperson lays out the patterns so that the large pieces come from the strongest parts of the hide and the edges and small parts from the rest.
Frame and stiffeners
Stiffeners are placed between the outer leather and the lining. They are what hold up the sides and the base so the bag does not sag.
Seams and edge finishing
The pieces are sewn by hand or by machine, and the cut edges are painted, burnished or folded. A neat edge protects the leather from delaminating.
Fittings
Clasps, rings, buckles and base studs are fixed with rivets or screws. The metal takes most of the strain every time the bag is opened.
Lining and pockets
The inner fabric covers the back of the leather and the seams. The wear on a lining often shows how heavily the bag has been used.
Accessory materials
| Material | Strengths | How it ages |
|---|---|---|
| Leather | Strong and breathable; over time it moulds itself to the hand and to the shape of the contents. | Darkens and develops a fine patina, but without care it dries out and cracks at the folds. |
| Suede | Soft and velvety to the touch, holds colour beautifully. | Readily absorbs moisture and stains; the nap gets crushed and shiny over time. |
| Cotton | Light and easy to wash; good for linings, scarves and summer bags. | Fades in the sun, wears through at the corners and may shrink in the wash. |
| Silk | Fine and lustrous; holds a print and a light drape well. | Sensitive to light and sweat; over time it splits along the folds and becomes brittle. |
| Metal fittings | Withstands strain, gives an object a finished look and is easy to repair. | Tarnishes and darkens; the plating wears off where it is touched, and joints may corrode. |
| Plastic | Light, allows any shape and colour, unaffected by water. | Yellows, loses flexibility and cracks, especially in cold and sunlight. |
Read next
- History of bags (in Russian)
A note at an archived address: from the pouch on a belt to the shoulder bag, and what an old bag can tell you.
- History
Accessories through the ages: from the belt pouch to the shoulder bag, the Paris Convention of 1883 and the day established by WIPO in 2000.
- People
Designer, leatherworker, milliner, jeweller, textile conservator and costume curator: the roles that keep the culture of accessories alive.
- Collections
Three reading routes: what we carry in our hands, what we wear on our heads, authorship and authenticity.
- Articles
The magazine's six themes, from the history of accessories to authorship and trade marks, plus a catalogue of articles in English.
Sources
- Encyclopaedic sources on the history of costume
Articles of law and the dates of international agreements are cited from open official texts; laws change, so always check the version currently in force. Confirm announcements of exhibitions, fairs and talks with the organisers.